|
Automatic
Watches
My
watch collecting has gone in phases. The first one began in the
early 90s when I was shopping with my friend Tom and came across
a white-faced Raymond Weil watch with Roman numerals. The band was
made of gold and silver links, a combination that I can't bear today,
and it was always too big for my wrist, so the watch flopped around
and twisted this way and that. Although it was wafer thin, I always
managed to scrape it on doorways and tables. After a couple more
Raymond Weil watches, my interests moved on to other things.
 |
The second phase began in the late 90s when I took an interest
in automatic watches. The Raymond Weil watches all had quartz
movements -- i.e., they ran on battery power. Automatic movements
are mechanical. When your wrist moves and the watch case shakes,
a weight in the movement circles around and winds the watch.
These watches are sometimes called self-winding or, mistakenly,
"kinetic."
Although
I'm no fan of Mont Blanc watches, when they first introduced
their chronograph watches I was hooked. Imagine a big, thick,
black-faced watch with bold white lettering. When it came
time to purchase, though, I happened to glance over and see
the Baume et Mercier Capeland chronograph. It was love at
first sight.
|
For a couple of years, I wore the Capeland with its original
steel band and didn't think much about watches. Then, I started
talking to fellow watch enthusiasts Keith Ingram, Tony Balay
and Luke Le Duc. That launched phase three. The first thing
I did in this phase was replace the Capeland's steel band
with a contoured rubber one featuring a branded deployant
clasp. A deployant clasp is a metal clasp that holds the two
sides of the strap together folds over to secure them. (The
word deployant is French, with the -ant
ending serving the same function as our -ing. English
speakers often incorrectly say "deployment." In
fact, one authorized Rolex service person insisted on correcting
my correct pronunciation over and over again when I tried
to buy one of these clasps at Houston's Watch Hospital on
FM 1960. Naturally, I kept saying deployant.)
During
the summer of 2002, I also added a Sinn Flieger 356 to the
collection. The Sinn is a classic military-style chrono with
an acrylic dome and brushed steel finish. They are not exactly
easy to find, so I did a lot of research online, spending
hours at the Sinn
Forum, before I finally made my purchase.
The
Sinn Flieger started me down the path of military-style watches,
and soon I had added a Fortis to the collection. That took
some time, because my first impression of Fortis aesthetics
was very negative. By early 2003, though, that had all changed
and I walked into Tourneau
in the Houston Galleria to buy the Fortis pictured at right.
|
 |
 |
But let's rewind and talk about the "one that got away."
For me, it was the Rolex
Explorer II. My feelings about Rolex paralleled the ones
I had for Mont Blanc: I considered it to be an over-priced
brand sustained more by hype than reality. Rolex seemed to
cater to all that was gaudy and tasteless in this life. My
father had a couple of Rolexes and I used to tease him about
them. Well, pride goeth before a fall. One day I saw the first
Rolex that ever caught my eye: a stainless steel sports model
with a 24-hour hand. The Explorer II had been really hot just
before I discovered it, and the price was over $3,000. That
was over twice what I had paid for the Baume et Mercier. I
rationalized the expense in a variety of clever ways and tried
to invent a number of schemes that would offset the cost.
But
in the end, it proved too extravagant. The cost of the Rolex
was well over my limit, psychologically if not financially.
Still, there are days when I imagine how different things
might have been....
|
The irony of this obsession is that watches with automatic
movements do not keep better time than those with quartz movements.
In fact, a cheap Seiko you pick up at Wal-Mart may very well
prove more accurate than a Patek Phillippe that costs more
than your car. To enter these waters, you have to submit to
the idea of the watch as an objet d'art. And you
have find a way to survive when you bang your expensive objet
on a door frame.
|
 |
|